Garden Pictures May 15. There’s nothing like early morning light to appreciate the Spring garden!
Lots of plants are designated as “ground cover”, because they do in fact cover the ground. If the whole object is to prevent weeds from falling on the soil and germinating, almost anything dense will do. But my own definition is limited to plants that are essentially living mulch (and you all know how much I love mulch!).
Do choose low growing plants.
So I don’t use spreading junipers. Or cotoneaster. Or anything else woody. Or most ornamental grasses. All these have more “character” than I desire in a “living mulch”. I prefer my ground covers to almost disappear into the background (unless they don’t, as you will soon see…), and allow the taller, bolder plants to really shine. A bit like a subtle frame for a picture–usually it’s the picture you want to feature, not the frame.
Do choose plants that are not too aggressive but will still spread in a civilized manner
I include in the category of “too aggressive” things like Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis). It’s got a lot going for it, but it self-seeds like crazy, and tho’ fairly easy to pull out even when it’s pretty large, it does make for a lot of pulling. On the other hand it you’ve got a lot of space to cover, and this would include dry shade like under conifers, Lady’s Mantle is the thing for you.
Ajuga is a pretty vigorous spreader, but can be controlled. Ditto for Creeping Thyme or Wooly Thyme. Both of these grow into my lawn, but if I had a wider edging, like 12″ flagstone instead of 4″ bricks, the runners of ajuga wouldn’t go that far.
Do choose plants that will give all season interest.
First of all, evergreen. Herbaceous perennials (plants that lose their above ground growth at the end of fall) do not meet the need of ground covering. Large patches of daylilies or columbine or Sedum spectabilis (the tall ones) will indeed cover a lot of ground, but only until winter, when all above ground greenery dies off (needing to be cleaned up), and the ground is again open and subject to weeds blowing in, to compaction by winter rains, and to squirrels digging up bulbs and burying nuts.
Secondly, colour. Either foliage colour or flower colour.
Both these heucheras have strong colour–not what I’d call subtle. But I find they don’t compete with their mates–I have them located mainly where the plants that grow up around and through them have a much shorter season–like spring and summer bulbs.
Finally, texture. I keep referring to Lady’s Mantle, and positively in this case:
Do choose plants that your native garden visitors (like pollinators and insect predators) will appreciate.
This would include anything native that still fits into all the other requirements: Mike’s top 5 include Tiarellas, Heucheras, Epimediums, and I’d add Salal (Gaultheria shallon)–the dwarf varieties.
Don’t choose plants that are considered invasive in your area
Here it’s English or Boston ivy, Periwinkle, Lamium, Goutweed…
Don’t choose plants that need a lot of cleaning up.
Poor Lady’s Mantle, she gets a bad rap from me. She’s not “herbaceous”, in that she doesn’t lose all her leaves in winter. But most of them will dry up and shrivel. So they are still covering the ground, but need cutting off in the spring when new growth starts. Hellebores have a similar need: they really are evergreen, but by late winter or whenever the particular cultivar begins to produce flower buds, the foliage is looking a little tatty, and may actually hide the flowers. So I usually cut off old foliage as new flowers begin to sprout.
Now neither of these chores is particularly onerous–unless you have acres of them, in which case they will be onerous.
Don’t choose plants that will compete with other plantings.
This would include plants that have a bold character on their own–like Blue Fescue. Blue Fescue is a brilliant plant–love its colour, its shape, it texture, it’s minimal clean-up. But it definitely doesn’t meld into the background. So as a feature plant, especially when mass-planted, it’s wonderful. But not “groundcover”.
Other ornamental grasses however have a more subtle presence, and are fine for groundcover: Carex caryophylla ‘Beatlelmania’ is one of my faves, altho in my garden it’s hard to keep it happy.
Here are a few more options:
Most of the above plants are mainly sun-lovers, but will tolerate some degree of shade. Those like Iberis and Aubretia that put on a carpet of bloom would seem to be a bit bold to “meld into the background”. But when they’re in bloom, there’s not much else around them. But the time other perennials or shrubs are growing and sprouting, the groundcover is a lovely carpet of green. Background green.
So you have LOTS of suggestions here. No excuse for not having your soil safely covered and protected from weeds, critters, compaction. Unless you prefer wood chip mulch!
Comments? Questions? Concerns? What are you using for ground cover? Leave them all in the comment box.
Make YOUR Garden Sustainable
You’ve heard the buzz words: “Green gardening”, “Sustainable gardening”, “Environmentally sound gardening”. But you don’t know how to transform your water-guzzling, fertilizer-gobbling, time- and energy-intensive outdoor space into something that requires less of all those things.
I’ll be honest here. Much as I’m always encouraging my readers to DIY, and giving (I think) good advice and how-to’s, in this case I’d recommend you hire a professional. If you’re willing to put in hours/days/weeks of labour, and/or amortize the project over a few years, you can definitely do it yourself, and save a lot of money in the process. You may have read some of my articles and started to implement elements (get ready for an evening of reading!). But if you’ve already unsuccessfully had a go, or achieved a product that doesn’t quite satisfy, or know that you haven’t the time energy or expertise to get what you want, then it’s time to call in the cavalry.
Probably the chief mandate of sustainable gardening is the same as the mandate of the medical profession: “Do no harm.” When we use a lot of inorganic additives most of it is washed either into watersheds or municipal sewage systems, resulting in algae blooms and fish death, and may result in inappropriate vegetative growth on your plants instead of flowering or fruiting growth. When we try to grow plants that need conditions that differ substantially from your own environment, you’ll find you either have to water (with fresh water) through dry months, or lose plants that prefer warm, dry conditions instead of our cold wet Fall/Winter/Springs (which leads to the whole conversation about wastage…).
You’ll think the answer then is easy–native plants. But have you noticed, your property isn’t “native”. It’s been developed and re-developed possibly many times since the days when it was a forest or prairie. Your soil is different, the sun and wind exposure is different, the fauna is very different.
I’m not saying it’s rocket science, it’s not (duh…). Heck, if I can do it, anyone can do it. Except that because garden design/horticulture is a passion of mine, I’ve made it my business not only to understand the theory and process, but to actually LIKE the process. You may be the same. Or you may want the product, but not necessarily want to engage in the process. Or you may be that wonderful ideal client–the person who wants the product (the sustainable garden, in case you’ve forgotten what we’re talking about here) and also wants the hands-on coaching to achieve it. (Not that everyone else isn’t a wonderful ideal client…)
So if you’re longing for that beautiful and sustainable outdoor retreat, consider calling in a designer that specializes in this. Check out their credentials and portfolio, call their references–you know all this, you’d do the same for a plumber or roofer. And then enjoy the results, knowing that your days of harming the environment through your gardening practices are at an end.
Steve Whysall (Vancouver Sun gardening columnist) wrote a great article in Friday’s paper entitled Six Ways To Keep Your Garden Looking Great.
He interviewed Egan Davis, the chief instructor of the Horticultural Training Program at the University of B.C. Botanical Garden, but formerly at Van Dusen Botanical Garden, and one of my Master Gardener instructors. So I’m really happy to report that all of Egan’s “six ways” have been previously addressed here in the pages of Real Life Garden Solutions!
Here’s a quick overview:
1. Mulch. And only use organic amendments to the soil, and only fertilizers that are actually needed. See here for LOTS more info.
2. Make sure your soil is carrying enough moisture. Adding compost will help with that.
3. Leave your fall garden “unkempt” for the critters. Read more here.
4. I love this one: Don’t be afraid to make changes. It’s one of my design mantras. A garden should be something that delights in changing over the years.
5. Grow some from seed. I haven’t written this post yet, but the pictures are all ready to go…
6. Become a backyard ecologist. Yes, I’ve written lots on this.
I was at a garden clinic on Saturday, where a couple asked about what they might plant in their window boxes. As I think more about it, I’d give them different advice now than I did on Saturday. Not that my advice was necessarily wrong, just not the best for what they actually wanted.
Their window boxes are LONG–6′ and 8′, and of course, only 8″ tall and 8″ deep. The location is north-facing, which means light-to-moderate shade (no direct sun, but nothing but the house casting shade), and they didn’t want to obscure too much of the outlook/view from the window, so preferred plants that would mature no higher than about 18-20″. And they wanted flowers. Oh, and they didn’t water very well, so they were hoping for plants that were drought tolerant.
That was one tough challenge! I was able to disabuse them of the notion that they could get by without watering. Drought tolerant plants are generally only drought tolerant (not necessarily drought-loving) after a year or two of growth with infrequent but deep watering so that the roots grow deep to search for water. This isn’t possible in a container that’s only 8″ tall. Happily, they resolved to be more diligent with watering.
However that didn’t by any means solve all their problems. In order to have all season flowering (in any garden), you have to have a range of perennials that have different bloom times. Most perennials will only have a 2-8 week bloom period. And the fewer individual plants there are, the shorter will be the bloom time. For example, the anemone blanda in my garden started blooming (with one flower) in mid-March, and is still blooming now. But that’s because they are scattered all over the garden, and they don’t open all at once. Each flower only last a few days.
(Exceptions include shrubs like modern roses, most of which bloom almost continuously from summer to frost; hellebores, which start blooming in winter and hold on to their individual blooms for months–that’s because the blooms aren’t petals, but sepals.)
Having all season flowering in a small space pretty much requires annuals. They have such a short life that their chief mandate is to produce tons of flowers and then set seed to ensure propagation of the species. That’s why petunias, geraniums, salvia just keep blooming and blooming. (You can improve even vigorous bloomers by deadheading to prevent seed-set.) And it was annuals that I left out of the equation on Saturday. We were at a perennial nursery, so there weren’t any annuals there anyway, but I obviously didn’t have my thinking cap on.
Now if you’re willing to water and forego continuous flowering, the perennial options for a long narrow widow box are more numerous than you might imagine. And no shortage of colour, as you’ll soon see. I don’t personally care for the “stripey/checkerboard” look of a lot of window box designs, with alternating colours (red geranium-bue lobelia-geranium-lobelia, and a few trailers for variety), and unless you want a formal look, I also don’t care for a symmetrical planting.
For this Kitsilano couple, I recommended a planting that has a “wavy” profile, starting tall at one end, then short, then mid-height, then short again by the other end of the planter. And rather than have a lot of different varieties, they should consider having several plants of few varieties. Remembering they had 6′ and 8′ to fill. I would love to have suggested a dwarf skimmia for flowers, fragrance and rich green evergreen foliage, but the size of the container (8″ x 8″) just wouldn’t sustain a shrub, even a small shrub.
We decided on a tall-ish grass for the far end. Several are happy in moderate shade, some of the Carexes, Deschampsia, others. Then for a low-growing interesting-coloured plant, Epimedium.
They loved the look of Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’, which is indeed a great plant for texture, with large heart-shaped leaves and splashes of silver, and tall airy flower stalks with tiny bright blue flowers. So that came next. And altho’ the picture below doesn’t show it, the Brunnera we chose did have a slight golden rim on the leaves.
I’d also love some of the Heucheras, for much the same reasons, and in this case, a purple Heuchera would coordinate well with the flowers of the Epimedium and the reddish border on its leaves.
And then for the low-growing end, they chose Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, or Japanese Forest Grass, a rich-coloured grass that looks a lot like bamboo, if bamboo weeped over the edge of a container.
So you see, no shortage of colour, just not a lot of flowers.
So here are the take-home messages for the window box in the shade:
1. If you must have non-stop flowering, go for annuals. Petunias, Lobelia, New Guinea Impatiens, lots more.
2. Colourful foliage is just as good for providing colour.
3. All containers need to be (fed and) watered, the smaller the container, the more frequently it needs watering! Hoping for enough rain won’t do.
Leave your comments and questions here; would love to hear what you’re doing with your window boxes.