Hanging Herb Garden

I saw this on Hometalk:herb-kitchen-hanging-garden-rods-container-gardening-gardening-kitchen-design

 

The original post was on 3 Peppers. One important thing that wasn’t mentioned is lack of drainage. Clearly punching hole in the bottom of these cute pails will result in cute puddles of mud on the windowsill and floor, so I recommend not doing that. The author added rocks to the bottom of the pails “for drainage”, but RLGS readers will know that’s counter-productive.  Just be careful how much watering you do, and test the wetness of the soil by poling your finger down a few inches.

 

Advertisements

Window Sill Herbs

I subscribe to quite a few gardening and design blogs, one of my favourite being Northwest Edible LIfe. Today’s guest author on Erica’s blog is Grace Hensley of eTilth.com, who vegetable-gardens in 150 sq ft of space, which is just about how much room I’ve designated in my garden for edibles.

You can go to either or both to read the article, but I just have to highlight this one paragraph because of my absolute FAILURE at growing basil.

Not happy basil dug up from the Fall garden

Not happy basil dug up from the Fall garden

“Don’t bother with planting basil in the ground; it’s too cold here. Instead, buy one fresh $4.00 packet of basil at the grocery store. Gently snip off the bottom centimeter of each stem and the lower leaves. Put each stem in a jar of water on your windowsill, with the leaf junction below the water line, and it will form roots. Make sure to change the water at least weekly. You should be able to grow and eat that small purchase for many weeks.”

That’s definitely my plan for this year–no more guilt over sowing 6 different kinds of basil and harvesting enough for one meal. It’s grocery store basil all the way. Let’s see how well it works.

Anyone on for the contest? Comment if you’ll join me, and we’ll keep one another updated here.

5 Herbs That Thrive in Winter

A BIG disclaimer to start with: I live in coastal BC, Zone 7b to 8b (depending on your micro-climate). So we have a big advantage when it comes to herbs–most common herbs will survive, even thrive through our rainy but seldom frosty winters (today notwithstanding).

1. Basil

I’ll start with basil, because it’s a favourite, and because it WON’T survive outside, so needs to be brought inside and placed in a full sun window. I’ve seen recommendations to dig up your outdoor basil plant and bring it in as a houseplant, but here’s what happened when I did that:

Not happy basil dug up from the Fall garden

Not happy basil dug up from the Fall garden

This is not how you’d like your basil to look. So if you plan to salvage it from the garden I suggest you dig it up when it still looks big and bushy. Preferably I suggest buying a new one and keeping it inside.

2. Rosemary

Rosmarinus officinalis is a Mediterranean herb that loves full hot dry sun, but will usually tolerate our cold wet cloudy winters if placed in a spot that won’t get too cold or too windy. Your best bet is to plant it on the sunny (south) side of the house/balcony, close to the wall. The warm building will provide some protection as well as reflecting the sun toward the plant. We’ve certainly had rosemary-killing frosts here in Metro Van, but they only happen every 5-10 years. And the older your rosemary is, the better it will tolerate the cold.

Rosemary--Rosmarinus officinalis

Rosemary–Rosmarinus officinalis

3 , 4 and 5. Oregano, Thyme, Sage

Origanum vulgare, Thymus vulgaris, (I guess you have to know Latin to understand why one is a female herb and the other a male herb?–Latin scholars, please enlighten me here…), and Salvia officinalis, are also Mediterranean herbs that like the same conditions as Rosemary, but are much more cold-tolerant. Whether potted or ground-planted, very wintery and less-wintery winters, my oregano sage and thyme have weathered them all. Oregano and thyme are what some call “thugs”–they self seed like crazy and are hard to kill. But they’re also easy to pull up if they’re in the wrong place, and don’t really crowd out their neighbours. Sage grows like a small shrub similar to rosemary or lavender.

6. Parsley

Petroselinum crispum is a biennial, which means it grows leaves its first year, and a flower stalk in its second year. After flowering and setting seed, the parent plant dies, but the following year the seeds that fell the previous year will germinate and lo!, another new parsley plant! Does very well in coastal BC. Grow your parsley room where it will have room to sprout new babies, and you’ll have a continuous supply of parsley, even through the winter.

Don’t confuse Parsley with Cilantro, aka Chinese Parsley, which is an annual. It needs to be re-grown every year from seed, but self seeds very well. If you allow the flower heads to set seed and mature before you cut it down (or don’t–see my post about Fall clean-up), new cilantro will start to grow in mid spring.
And if you collect seeds instead of just letting them fall, you can succession-sow them and have fresh garden cilantro right up until the hot days of summer start. Then start to sow them again and when it gets a little cooler, they’ll germinate and give you more harvests.

5 Herbs — Happy Plants in Winter

There you have 5 winter-happy herbs and 1 winter-sad herb. Next year start early and you’ll discover the fun of harvesting your own herbs for cooking, teas, candies, whatever.

Leave questions and comments. Oh, and all you Latin scholars, I really want to hear from you! Don’t forget to click on the Follow button.

As Promised, Creating Your Herb Container Garden

There’s no shortage of Youtube videos on creating your container Herb Garden, so I’m not going to reinvent the wheel. Here’s one that covers all the essentials–Susan Doherty on six minute style.

So I’ll just make a few comments both on what Susan Doherty said, and what she didn’t say:

Pots:

The bigger the better. I’ve said this quite a few times now, but for a bunch of reasons I usually go too small when it comes to containers, and I’d like to save you the headache of failure. I’m not very big or strong and so I’d rather not have to move a 100 kg (filled with wet potting mix) container; I’m cheap so I’d rather not pay for a large (beautiful ceramic) container; I don’t have much space, so I’m not sure where to put a large heavy beautiful container. All bad reasons for going small. In fact there are not many good reasons for going small.

Using strawberry pots is often recommended for herbs, but there are a few problems with them, which of course I’ll explain:

http://gardenwithpassion.com/tower-herb-garden/

Cute as anything “herb tower”, but…

As you can see in the picture, each of the side pockets houses one plant. Which means that each of these plants has a very small, terracotta (read “dries out quickly”) pot. So keeping these outside plants adequately hydrated is a little tricky. And when you water from the top, the water tends to pour out the pockets rather than going all the way to the bottom. There are ways of preventing this–for example, using pvc pipes with lots of holes drilled–but IMHO the advantages aren’t worth the work. Choosing ceramic instead of terracotta is a little better for the first problem, but none at all for the second.

DSCN1016

It’s difficult to gauge scale here, but at about 16″ tall and 18″ in diameter, this would be ideal for any combination of herbs.

Watering:

Your big container won’t need watering all that often. Even in the heat of summer, a lot of potting mix will hold a lot of water, and your herbs are not big water guzzlers. (Other container-happy plants ARE big water guzzlers, so this won’t apply to them.) Expect to water once a week, but check more often than that: push a chopstick into the soil about 2-3″, and if it comes out still pretty dry–not much soil sticking to the chopstick–it’s time to water.

When you do water, make sure you see water escaping the bottom through the excellent drainage holes you drilled before you started. Did you drill excellent drainage holes? Did you check your pot to see how many and how big the drainage holes were? All you want is safe drainage–you don’t want stagnant water. I love this picture from Winsford Walled Garden.

The tiny pot has four LARGE holes, the MUCH bigger pots has a lot of TINY holes. Take a drill and make those small ones much larger.

The tiny pot has four LARGE holes, the MUCH bigger pots has a lot of TINY holes. Take a drill and make those small ones much larger. For ceramic pots use a “spear-point” drill bit or a “core” drill bit.

And incidentally, you don’t want to do what was always recommended (and unfortunately still is), that is to put broken crock (clay pots) or pebbles in the bottom of your container to “aid drainage”. For I can’t remember what  scientific reason (and Google is stubbornly resisting me here), water wants to stay in its comfort-zone rather than going somewhere else. So your styrofoam peanuts or gravel or broken pots or crushed pop cans or plastic milk jugs, or what ever you’ve put at the bottom of your pot for whatever reason, is going to HINDER drainage, not AID it. The water will stay in the soil, not drain into space, so your pot will get actually waterlogged instead of draining freely, and your plants won’t like it much.

Where Is It?

In most cases, your container garden will be positioned with an unequal amount of sun front and back. The plants on one side of the pot will get more sun than the plants on the back. Not a problem! Tall things at the “back”, short things at the “front”. Or more shade tolerant at the back, less shade-tolerant at the front. Or put the pot on a lazy susan and rotate every few days. That’s my own preference, because it also lets me move the container whenever I want. You can buy container lazy susans, (pardon the unintentional plug for Home Depot), but they’re not very durable, and the wheels are a bit small. I made one myself years ago with 2×4’s that is still working just fine, and the key element was large castors.

Now besides what plants get how much sun, the other question here is, Is it on a balcony? Will your neighbours be upset if your draining container is pouring down onto their balcony? You’ll want to have a nice big saucer to collect all that draining-out water. Some will (reasonably) recommend that you not let your pot sit in water for more than an hour, but emptying that saucer from underneath a 100kg pot is easier said than done. So yes, water until you see drainage out the bottom, but only as much as will fill your nice big saucer. And don’t worry too much about standing water, you won’t likely see mosquitos breeding there, and the roots of your plants are nowhere near the water level, so they’re not going to rot.

One Last Really Important Thing…

…Make sure your plants are all well hydrated before they go into the large container. Remember water not wanting to leave its comfort zone? If you water the newly planted container, but the individual plants’ soil is dry, the new water will not want to invade the plants’ dry zone, and it will take some long period of time (maybe days?) for the dry zone to wick up water from the wet zone, meanwhile the plant is panting for water and may not survive the ordeal.

So it’s not rocket science. And whether you get it all right first time round or not, never worry, just enjoy the process. Next year you can do things a little different.

Comments? Questions? Leave a reply, share to your preferred social media site… And stay tuned for the next post. You may want to click on the “Follow” button.

These Are a Few of My Favourite … Herbs

Everyone seems to want to grow herbs. When I look at custom garden designs, many of them have a dedicated “herb garden”, often in a knot garden kind of look. Here’s a link to a detailed How To for an Herb Knot Garden, thanks to DIY Network . Personally, I prefer to have my herbs scattered among all the other plants of the garden. For a few reasons:

Flowering Herbs

All your herbs will flower at one time or another, and it’s nice to have them contributing to the overall look of your flower or vegetable beds. Chives for example put on a lovely show of purple balls, so why isolate them when they’d look lovely with anything red or yellow or white–or almost any colour.

Image

Chive flowers and friendly bee.

The picture leads me to another reason to plant your herbs in mixed-use beds:

Attracting Beneficials

There’s no way to avoid the presence of precious-plant-eating garden denizens, but there are LOTS of ways to minimize them, and most important of those ways is to attract to your garden the good insects that feed on the bad insects. You do that by planting the plants the good guys like, inviting them to your house. Then they see that you’ve also laid the table with their other favourite foods–like aphid larvae–yum, yum!

A lot of flowers attract beneficial insects, but it seems the flowers of herbs are particularly adept at that. Diane’s Flower Seeds has a list of flowering plants that attract bees, butterflies, lacewings (the list of beneficial insects is pretty long…), and the vast majority are herbs.

Pollination

You can see in the chives picture the flowers are attracting bees which are key to pollination. So plant bee-loving herbs near tomatoes or cucumbers or squash. Thyme,  oregano, dill, parsley, cilantro, all are herbs that will attract the bees.

Sun or Shade

Some herbs will grow in almost any amount of sun or shade. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a member of the mint family, which means it’s a THUG. It’ll grow anywhere, take over any space, and outcompete anything that was there before it. But the smell is divine, and makes some kind of therapeutic tea (you can tell I’m a real fan of herbal teas…), so if you want to grow it, just make sure it’s in a container–containing it from spreading.

Image

Lemon Balm–I’ve been pulling this out of the garden for three years, thanks to the tenant’s love of herbal teas.

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) on the other hand wants FULL sun, and lots of heat. So don’t plant it until our coastal BC nights are over 10 C. That’ll be June at the earliest.

Unfortunately for the person with a mainly shady garden, almost all herbs (excepting the afore-mentioned mint family) want at least half-day sun. But if you don’t have outdoor sunny space, maybe you have indoor sunny space–a window sill? Basil will still grow happily indoors as long as that window is south facing with the sun streaming in almost all day.

So here are my list of favourites: first the part-shade-tolerant:

Parsley: EASY to grow, perennial, fabulous rich green colour, hard to kill.

Image

I’ve accidentally dug up the parsley many times thinking it was buttercup, and it always comes back. But unlike the dreaded mint family, it’s quite civilized in its spread.

Oregano: even tho’ it’s a Mediterranean herb, indicating full sun and lots of heat, it really will grow in quite a variety of spots, and perennial in our zone. Mine is in the sun until the vegetables grow up in front of it, then it gets lots of shade. It’s still happy as a clam.

Image

Growing at the foot of the grapevine in this picture, under roses in another spot.

Cilantro: (Coriander sativum) What a brilliant herb. It tolerates cold, so it can be planted as seed really early in the spring. I sowed seed last fall, and it’s coming up now. Once the weather gets warm, it’ll begin to flower, and that’s the end of the cilantro, but not the end of coriander–the seed of the same plant. Wait for the seed heads to get white, and you can collect the seed for cooking or for replanting. But you don’t have to wait for next year to get more, you can keep sowing seed all later summer and fall. Once the nights get coolish again,  your cilantro will happily keep putting out leaves. And a little shade from perennials that grow up around it will help keep it cool as the weather warms up–giving you maybe a few more weeks of harvest. The more you take, the more you get.

Image

Cilantro in amongst the garlic–that is, I think it’s garlic…

Favourites that really want a lot of sun:

Basil: I just can’t be without it. And when there’s lots and I want to harvest more than I need now (to stimulate more growth–take more and you’ll get more!), I just put the fresh leaves/stems in a baggy and freeze the whole shebang. Or of course you can make your batch of pesto and freeze it in small portions. Basil won’t survive our winters–in fact it’ll barely survive our Falls. Before the nights get cold you can dig it up and put in a pot in that sunny window. Should be able to get a few more harvests from it.

Dill: Wants lot of sun, but it’s another plant that tolerates cool temperatures, and will start to flower as it gets hot, and stop making leaves. So don’t sow all your seed to begin with; sow about 1/4 of the seeds now, then once those flower, start another batch, and every few weeks after that.

Rosemary: Another herb it’s hard to be without. Rosemary wants full sun, and altho’ it is perennial in our zone, it’s best to offer it some winter protection in case we get a colder than usual winter. I bought two rosemary plants late in the season last year, and potted them in 1 gallon pots so they could live on the protected porch through the winter. When the soil gets warm I’ll plant them out in the garden.

Image

You can see it’s been a little cold-damaged on leaf tips, but it’s happily putting out new growth.

This post is already way too long, so stay tuned for the next one when I’ll tell you how you can grow most or all of these in containers.

Feel free to ask me questions, after all, that’s the point of this blog. And share in your chosen forum. 🙂